Body &
PaintBody &
PaintPaint Prep
Use Glassurit, Ditzler, Dupont, stick with the whole system from one
manufacturer (I prefer Glassurit and feel it is worth the extra money).
Assuming you're working with the OEM finish, here's what I would look for:
Metal should be sprayed w/self-etching primer or chemically treated. I prefer
the self-etch. All steel parts on a 928 are galvanized and normal
primers/paints won't stick for very long. Aluminum parts will corrode and creep
up under the paint and make ugly blisters [check front fenders, hood and doors]
very carefully for chips around edges and around holes, i.e. spioler mounting.
For bumpers, if there is "any" cracking in paint now, strip &
reprime with flex primer (there is special stripper for these parts).
Sand the entire car deep into the OEM finish but not through. When you hit the
primer layer, stop!
Prime entire car with urethane or epoxy primer, the latter is overkill, then
sand this down to your final prepped surface. The reasoning here is that there
will be unseen flaws in the OEM finish that won't show until the new paint
drys.
Any filling should be done in the usual way w/high quality fillers, and new
2-part spot puttys for the fine stuff (old type is laquer-based and WILL shink
down a month down the road).
Paint should be base/clear for all but solid colors and even then; it should be
urethane for durability. Be sure to use the manufacturer's high line paint
system as all have a "body shop" line which is made for speed over
finish quality.
Do Not add flex additive to base coat for the bumpers, it is not needed and
will change the color enough that it will annoy you. Do add flex to clear on
the flexible parts as it is needed to protect from crazing, cracking.
Painting around lights? Up? Down? Off car? I don't know. I haven't figured this
one out yet. It seems any way you go you'll have fuzzy spots from paint blowing
around the edges.
Hope this isn't to terribly long or too short to help.
Jim Viglietta