How to install the FXD gas tank skid
Installing the Four X Doctor Gas Tank Skid for TJs Tools needed: Philips screwdriver, side cutters pliers, ˝” socket and ratchet, ˝” wrench, small jack, pry bar and friend or two.
Safety equipment: fire extinguisher and safety glasses. If you are planning to unhook the fuel lines then you may want to get a fuel pressure gauge with a bleed valve on it so you can depressurize the fuel system at the main fuel injection rail. You may also pull the connector for the fuel pump and crank the engine over for 10-15 seconds to relive the fuel pressure.
The Four X Doctor gas tank skid is the ultimate gas tank skid plate for your TJ. Comparing the stock gas tank skid to the FXD skid is like comparing cardboard to plywood. The FXD skid is 3/16” thick for the bottom and 3/16” thick at the sides. The weight is over 60 LBS and that is all steel. The FXD gas tank skid will also raise your tank higher so you will not only protect your TJ’s gas tank but you will also gain ground clearance. If you ever worried about that plastic gas tank meeting a rock, worry no more because the FXD wrap around the entire lower portion of the tank. The FXD comes unfinished so you may paint it any color of your choosing. I recommend the spray can paint because after a few runs to the Rubicon a quick spray from your spray can will make it look like new again.
This is general information for installing the FXD gas tank skid on a TJ. The TJ used is a ’98 TJ with a 5” TeraFlex long arm lift kit with the rear track bar relocated using the TeraFlex rear track bar bracket kit and a Borla cat back exhaust system. Using the FXD gas tank skid did not cause any clearance issues at all with the track bar or exhaust.
Warning: Since we are working around gas, I make it a personal point not to work indoors because gas fumes can easily be ignited from many sources (i.e.: water heaters, space heater, jealous girl friend with lit road flare, etc.) Always keep a fire extinguisher readily available or know where to run and put away the Cuban cigar for now.
1. First thing to do is get your fuel tank level as low as possible. Drive till the fuel warning light is on (they are suppose to come on when there is only 5 gallons left in the tank, yea, right). A gallon of gas weights seven pounds and just five gallons will be 35 LBS and combine that with the stock gas tank and the FXD skid and you will be juggling close to 100 LBS. So get the tank as empty as possible close to home. Nothing worse then to see a fellow Jeep owner pushing his rig.
2. You now need to remove the fuel cap and undo the four long Philips screw right around the fuel inlet and the four short Philips screws securing the cover to the tub. The cover may now be removed and the fuel fill hose is now free.
3. Use your side cutters and clip the zip tie that is holding the rear axle vent line.
4. Looking directly underneath the fuel fill line there is a bonding wire that is clipped to an angle for ground. This clip can easily be pushed off and freed (don’t cut it, you will need to re-attach it later)
5. You now need to unhook the wire connecter for the power to the fuel pump and sending unit. This plug is located on the driver’s side and next to it is the fuel feed lines. The plug is somewhat tricky to unhook so take your time. There is a red safety clip that needs to slide away before the lever can be pushed down to be released. This should all come apart by hand, so put down the hammer and jaws of life.
6. Using your floor jack (or a really good friend) support the gas tank before lowering it. There are four, ˝” nuts that needs to be removed from the rear cross member and three, ˝” nuts in the front. Two of these nuts are right in the front over the rear track bar and the last nut is on the passenger side near where the track bar bends toward the frame. On the rear there are also two nuts with a long stud coming out. This is for the gas tank straps and they maybe loosened up later.
7. Now all the nuts are removed you will be able to lower the gas tank. This is a good time to have another friend help you out because the tank is a pain to juggle and your first friend maybe pinned under the tank. Take care with the fuel lines and the fuel return lines. On the fuel return line there is a plastic “y” connector and it can easily break (I found one at my auto parts store for $3.00 made of brass). When you lower the fuel tank, make sure the fuel fill hoses are free to come down and not being hung up (you may have to feed them past the cut outs in the wheel well area).
8. The fuel supply line and fuel vent line maybe unhook for more working room. Be sure you have a rag handy for any fuel that may seep out and make sure the fuel system is depressurized. The fuel supply lines maybe unhooked by carefully squeezing the retaining clips and gently pulling the connectors apart. Take care in not damaging the “O” rings (they also make a fuel line repair kit).
9. With the fuel tank off the vehicle you are now ready to remove the straps and the fuel tank. Undo the nuts for the straps at the rear and tip the straps forward and angle the straps to get them out. The retaining clip for the wire connector can be released by using a pair of pliers and pinching down the retaining pins. Now remove the tank from the stock skid and into the FXD skid.
10. Re attach the straps to the FXD skid and secure (be sure not to pinch any lines or wires) and reinstall the retaining clip for the wire connector. You can go ahead and tighten the nuts for the straps all the way, make sure you don’t over tighten the straps.
11. Sit the tank and skid on top of your jack or your friend’s chest and raise it back up to where you can re attach the fuel line and fuel return lines (if removed). Also get the fuel fill lines back into place and route the axle breather back into place. An extra pair of hands at this point really helps.
12. Carefully raise the tank back into position and route the fuel fill line back into place and make sure the fuel supply line and fuel return lines are not pinched and in place. Pay special attention to the stud in the front on the passenger’s side. This hole may be a pain to line up and for our vehicle we wound up using a pry bar wedged against the track bar to make it line up. Once all the holes are lined up, get the nuts back on but don’t tighten them until all of the nuts are in place.
13. Secure all the nuts and make sure the skid is sitting flush without anything binding. You will now need to hook the electrical connector back into place and make sure the safety clip is slid back.
14. Re attach the bonding wire and get the fuel fill line back into place. Use a new wire tie and secure the axle vent line back to the fuel fill line. Re install the fuel fill cover. Now put your keys into the ignition and put it into the start position but don’t crank it over. The fuel pump is now “on” and this is a good time to make sure there are no leaks. If you smell or see any fuel, get the key out of the ignition immediately and recheck your connections and yell at supposed friend. If there are no leaks, take all the credit for yourself and assure your friend that his injuries are not life threatening and it will grow back.
15. This job can be done single handed with the aid of a floor jack. Time for install will be around three hours for the average person. Please don’t hesitate to call us for help or with any questions you may have.
16. Jeepers and Creepers maybe be reached at Tech@jeepersandcreepers.com or 415-387-2323
