

In the late summer of '97 Catherine and I took a 5-day saddle trip into the High Sierras, part of the
Yosemite National Park. We started the journey at the stables at Tuolumne Meadows. Here we met our
guide and wrangler, Ken Major, and were introduced to our mules, named George and Frog. We were soon
saddled up, our packs secured to the pack mule, Betty, and on the first leg to Sunrise Camp.
Midday
found us taking a lunch break at the stunningly beautiful Cathedral Lake.
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There are a number of camps in the High Sierras, for the use of backpackers or those, like us, who preferred
the easier way of getting around. The camps are only open for a few short months in the summer when the
snow has abated and the access is clear. All the camps are totally self sustaining, no mains electricity,
water or drainage, and all supplies must be bought in, and taken out, by mule train.
Here's one
crossing the valley below Sunrise Camp.
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The second day's ride took us to the second camp on our trip, at Merced Lake. The camps consist of frame
tents on concrete bases and sleep 2 or 4 people in pretty basic comfort. They are provided with wood-burning
stoves, which is a blessing since although the day-time temperatures were up in the 70's and 80's it
got pretty cold at night. After all, it's pretty high here. Sunrise camp is at 9,400ft, Merced at 7,100ft
and Vogelsang, where we will get to in another two days, 10,300ft. All camp sites are equipped with showers
and a communal eating hall where some wonderful meals were served.
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Since we spent two days at Lake Merced, we had the chance to explore some of the local scenery.
Here's the lake itself.
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And above the camp, Lewis Creek, which flows into the lake. It becomes the Merced River when it leaves
the lake, finally bursting over the edge of the Yosemite Valley as Vernal falls
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While we're taking it easy at Merced Camp, let me introduce you to Ken Major, our guide and wrangler.
Ken is a retired rancher from New Mexico who comes to Yosemite each year for the summer to work on the
saddle trips. Our trip was the last of the season and he was heading back to New Mexico once we were
finished.
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Here are the mules, taking a well earned rest, deep in the woods at Merced.
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We needed those two days at Merced since Day 4 involved some really stenuous riding, as the trail took
us climbing over 3,000 ft up to the highest camp at Vogelsang. The views looking back over our shoulders
were quite magnificent, if a little scary at times. The mules were wonderfully sure-footed and took it
all in their stride. As we approach lunchtime we stopped climbing and followed Fletcher Creek to our
lunch stop overlooking Emeric Lake. It was really amazing to see small fish swimming in the creek. They
must be able to survive being frozen for 7 months of the year since there's no way thay could get this
far upstream with all the waterfalls below.
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We made it to the top! Vogelsang camp is at 10,300 ft. and yes, the white stuff on the edge of the mountain
in the distance is snow, still there in early September.
We're just about to start unsaddling
the mules before turning them loose in the corral and then it's time for a shower - sorry! this late
in the season and Vogelsang is on severe water rationing. A quick wash down with a face cloth is all
that's allowed.
We did have time before dinner to hike up to the pass and throw snowballs at each
other and admire the views.
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The campsite at Vogelsang is probably the most exposed of all the camps. It got quite cold at night,
we were glad of the wood-burning stove in the tent to keep us warm, even with thick down-filled sleeping
bags!
The most wonderful thing about the camp at Vogelsang was the night sky. Being this high
and not being surrounded by trees, the sky was a mass of stars, a truly magnificent sight.
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The entrepid adventurers make it back!
Back at the stables at Tuolumne Meadows and it's time for
us to say our farewells to Ken and the Mules and pack up our respective cars and head out, Ken back to
New Mexico and Catherine and I to the San Francisco Bay Area.
It was truly a trip of a life-time.
I hope you enjoyed coming along for the ride. Maybe this has wetted your appetite for a trip as well.
Why not visit some of the Yosemite web sites for initial information about the park.
The
Official National Park Service Site. High Sierras Yosemite Park.com Yosemite Park.net
Here's a few more images from the park for your delight.
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