Marin Headlands and the Point Bonita Lighthouse

The Marin Headlands and the Point Bonita Lighthouse

This is the best-kept secret from many of the tourist who visit our fair city. The headlands habitat includes freshwater marsh, tidal lagoon, coastal scrub, and rocky shoreline. Whether you run or ride, this is not an easy workout, and you will have to pick up the trail or access to the most spectacular sights as you find it. Taking the main road in and continuing southwest until you reach the edge of the cliffs can best explain it. Carefully, follow the perimeter of the coastline as access will permit. Try this on a long, slow distance day, you will want to take in the sheer coastal cliffs, white and black sand beaches, and the surrounding rolling hills.

One obstacle is a two-mile, steep hill that starts off of the Alexander Avenue exit. Conzelman Road has no bike lane, and peak tourist traffic can be unnerving. If you do not want to tackle the hill, you may drive to Hawk Hill and park. There is a short trail with steps that lead to a fantastic vista point on the right. In September and October, thousands of migratory raptors soar overhead before crossing the open waters of the Golden Gate.

It is another two miles to the Point Bonita Lighthouse, which begins with a one-way killer downhill, (12% grade). Again, if you wish to avoid the hills, you may park at the end of this road and start your run here. There are a couple of military batteries that you will pass as the road leads into a turnaround and parking lot. Just offshore from the Battery Mendell, is tiny Bird Island, where pelicans, gulls and other seabirds gather. There is a pathway that follows the perimeter of the cliff's edges for a short distance, and also to the tunnel entrance gate to the lighthouse. The views are incredible - San Francisco, Point Bonita, the Pacific ocean, steep cliff drop-offs, and the jagged rocks far below. Harbor seals are often sleeping on the beaches or nearby rocks. Offshore, look for sea lions bobbing up from the water. Avoid climbing the cliffs, they are prone to landslides and are covered with poison oak. There is a Coastguard radar site you can climb up and take a look down, if you dare! If the lighthouse gate is open, be sure to visit, it is free, and walking across the bridge and seeing the views are well worth your time.

There are many points of interest to watch for while running on the designated trails:

Coastal Trail: Start at the intersection of Conzelman and McCullough roads and follow the Coastal Trail 1.5M to the Rifle Range. 100 yards down McCullough Road, the trail heads uphill 1/3M to an intersection with the SCA Trail. Return by the same route for a 3.2M round-trip hike, or connect with the Rodeo Valley Trail for a longer run.

Wolf Ridge Loop: This loop is steep in places. Starting at sea level, it climbs 880 feet, then drops down to sea level again. 5.5M loop starts at the Rodeo Beach parking lot. Rodeo Beach has strong currents and deadly undertows, it is not recommended for swimming.

Gerbode Valley: Start at the long warehouse near the lagoon bridge (near Rodeo Beach) and follow the Miwok Trail 1/2M east until it meets the Bobcat Trail. Continue on the loop for a 5.5M run around the valley. If you take the first right fork 1/3M down the Miwok Trail, there is a charming mile long loop around Rodeo Pond.

Tennessee Valley: From the Tennessee Valley parking area, follow the trail to the beach and back for a 4M run. You can pick up other trails for additional mileage.

This is a perfect long run while training for a marathon. There are many spectacular sights, challenging terrain, and several options to go the distance without repeating loops. Here is my favorite route:

Park your car at Fort Hood Historical Point. It is located on the last exit before the Golden Gate Bridge off of 19th Avenue. There are no meters, and parking is usually available. (Save yourself the $3.00 bridge toll, and most probable traffic delays on the return trip into San Francisco.) Follow the signs and path to the Golden Gate Bridge, (pedestrians and cyclists, there are separate sides of the bridge you should be on. Please follow the directions! Tourists are not aware of runners and cyclists, you must watch out for them.)

When you get to the Marin side, about a 100 yards from the parking lot is the singletrack Coastal Trail. This is a series of switchbacks, which gives you alternating views of Sausalito and the Bay, Highway 101 and the city. Soon, the Coastal Trail intersects with the SCA Trail and then leads into the Rodeo Valley Trail. After about two miles, the Rodeo Trail ends.

Turn left on the Miwok Trail and head for the shoulder of the Rodeo Lagoon. Pick up the path and proceed to Rodeo Beach, there is a gate to the PCT Trailhead. First, take the dirt path on the edge of the rugged coastline. Slow down to admire the dramatic views. Return to the paved road (Coastal Trail) that leads to the Tennessee Valley, (a challenging, hilly workout,) or return to Rodeo Beach, (refill the Camelbak) and pick up the path on the opposite side of Rodeo Lagoon.

From the Marin Headlands Center, take the road towards the Point Bonita Lighthouse. (See the top of this page for more explanation) For a shortcut, take the Coastal Trail to cut up to Conzelman, it is a narrow, steep uphill with some tall weeds and stickers. The paved road will take longer, but will get you there.

Return via Conzelman, (take a double shot of GU) and go against the one-way road and attack the rapidly ascending hill- (just for kicks!) You are able to see most of the road to climb, which looks difficult, however, the steepest part, (the 12% grade) is not visible until you get close to Hawk Hill. There are impressive sights throughout to keep you inspired, and many of the motorists and apprehensive cyclists descending the steep downgrade provide positive encouragement. The finish is a piece of cake, just run down to the Bridge and cross over to Fort Hood.

Another option is to start at the Tennessee Valley parking area, run an easy two miles to the beach, and then follow the Coastal Trail to Muir Beach. If the lower trail is open, take that for better views of the pond at Tennessee Cove. The beach is quite lovely with black sand and towering sea cliffs that can be accessed by climbing the steps provided. After taking in the views, get on the upper Tennessee Valley trail and proceed on the Coastal trail to Muir Beach. The only trail that can rival this breathtaking scenery is the Tule Elk Peninsula Trail in Point Reyes. Be prepared for a lot of climbing and stopping at several vista points. There is not much to see at Muir Beach unless you plan to return via the Redwood Creek trail, which then connects to the Miwok trail. Otherwise, bypass Muir Beach, (and the energy sapping climb out of it) and return via the Green Gulch or Coyote Trail. There is a terrific cityscape view of the San Francisco skyline amidst this wilderness area.

This is already a strenuous workout that is why I recommend parking at Tennessee Valley. If you are up for additional mileage, you can run a loop starting at the parking lot with the Marincello, Miwok or Old Springs trail. The Marincello is the hilliest, but it has pleasant views of Sausalito. The Old Springs trail is flatter and easier, and don't let those warning posters of mountain lion sightings deter you! Make sure you navigate correctly, the next major trailhead is the Visitor's Center, far away and a very challenging run back. The trails are marked, however; it is not always entirely clear what cuts to take. It is best to take along a trail map, or at least study the map at the parking lot carefully. Also, beware of poison oak along this route.

If you want to bike, you may ride across the Golden Gate Bridge, tour the area, and take Bunker Road into Sausalito. Here is a wonderful Marin Headlands 20M ride, that highlights the best views in this area:

Start: McLaren Lodge, Golden Gate Park, near Stanyon and Fell Streets.

Go west on JFK Drive to Arguello Avenue.

Enter the Presidio and turn a shallow right onto Arguello.

Left onto Washington Boulevard. Merge on to Lincoln Boulevard near the bay. Leisurely, take in the captivating views. You will see China Beach, the headlands, and ride some of the bike route on the Alcatraz XVII Triathlon.

Left onto approach to the Golden Gate Bridge, go through the underpass and get on the walkway across the bridge, (use the west side on weekends and after 3 PM on weekdays). On the Marin side, go through the parking lot to the intersection at Conzelman Road. If crossing on the east side of the bridge, walk your bike across using the pedestrian underpass under the bridge. This sounds tricky, and if you are dyslexic, it is!

Left on Conzelman to the summit. This is a steep, winding, (12% grade) road for 1.5M. At the bottom of the descent, take a sharp right on to Cliff Road. Watch for cars behind you and rocks and gravel, especially after heavy rains. If the hill is too steep, a right turn at McCullough Road will take you on the east side of Hawk Hill.

Right on Bunker Road, through the tunnel. Bicyclists do not have to observe the stoplight.

Right onto the approach to the Golden Gate Bridge. On weekends, continue through the underpass, turn right onto Conzelman, and then left into the parking lot. On weekdays, cautiously turn left across the bridge exit ramp into the vista point parking lot. For additional easy mileage, follow signs to Sausalito and enjoy the ambiance of this fine city.

Return: Cross the Golden Gate Bridge and retrace route to McLaren Lodge.

Facilities: The Marin Headlands Visitor Center has a restroom, phone and drinking fountain. A good selection of books and maps about the area is available. There are some portable toilets at Hawk Hill and other batteries; however, they are not well maintained. Rodeo Beach has restrooms and a drinking fountain with cool water. Tennessee Valley and Muir Beach have portable toilets.

Tips:

Best times to go on weekends are before 10 AM to avoid traffic and tourists. Weekdays are always great.

Wear layered clothing or bring a light jacket for gusty, chilly winds over the hills. Fog and winds are usually heaviest in the summer. Wear sun block, even on overcast days.

If you were too early to see the Point Bonita Lighthouse, you can watch the surfers at Rodeo Beach, visit the Marine Mammal Center, or the Marin Headlands Visitor Center while waiting. It's fun to take a short drive to Sausalito and have breakfast at the Lighthouse Cafe. Take Bunker Road (there is a six minute light at the tunnel) to Hwy 1 to Sausalito. Continue to Bridgeway, past all the tourist stuff. It is on the left side of the road, you can't miss it. If there is a line, there is usually seating at the counter. After watching the cooks flip so many pancakes, it is hard to resist ordering a stack.

Trail map of the Marin Headlands.

The Golden Gate National Recreation Area.

Map and resources for Marin County. The Headlands are the gateway to one of the most beautiful Northern California counties.

Of course!

Directions:

Take the Golden Gate Bridge to the Alexander Avenue exit.

Take an immediate left, (the sign says, To San Francisco) and go under the freeway.

Right towards Marin Headlands-do not get back on 101. This is Conzelman Road. To get to Tennessee Valley, take the Highway 1 exit off of 101, and follow the signs.

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