Half Dome, Yosemite National Park

Inspired by fellow Bay Area dead runners' reports about their adventure running up to Half Dome, I jumped at the chance when Mark Green, CA AIDS Ride Leader, put together a Glacier Point ride and Half Dome trek for the Memorial Day weekend. Unfortunately, both areas were closed due to heavy snow pack. It is hard to be disappointed in a beautiful and incredible place like Yosemite, so we just set out on the trails that were accessible. It was very cold when we left around 8 AM, so we wore many layers of clothing and gloves. There isn't any water or food sources, so each of us needed to carry our fuel requirements, some carried extra water bottles.

Since I was running, I bypassed the Mist Trail (lots of steep, narrow, steps) for the John Muir, (horse trail). The horse trail is almost two miles longer, but less congested and much easier to navigate while running. Many of the sightseers are going to Vernal Falls, (3 miles round-trip) so it is a good idea to leave early in the morning to avoid the crowds. The return back will most likely be very crowded, so be sure to take the horse trail back. When we arrived at Nevada Falls, (7 miles round-trip) some people were returning from Half Dome, (17 miles round-trip). The cables were down, but you could get to the saddle, and climb to the
summit if you dared. When we got within two miles of Half Dome, it became very hot, even though we were running in snow pack. Although I had to wrap my extra clothing around my waist, I was glad to have my pair of biking tights with padding when I descended down the saddle area, sliding on my rear in the snow. Be sure to wear trail running shoes, and prepare to get them wet.

I had no intention of climbing to the summit without cables-actually; I doubt I would have the courage to try even if the cables were up. I was ecstatic to make it up to the saddle; the views are awe-inspiring, absolutely unsurpassed. We relaxed on some rocks and soaked in the sun while enjoying the tranquil scenery.

A word of caution: A hiker that was missing the following week was found frozen to death, lost off the trail near where we were, along with two other people that hadn't been reported missing! Although there is a trail to Half Dome, it is very strenuous, at times downright treacherous, and you are out in the wilderness, with no facilities.

Posted are the reports from fellow dead runners:

Brad Smith's tale, excerpted from dead-runners-bay@storm.cadcam.iupui.edu

Five went; five returned. Each had a superlative to describe the day. Mine would have to be "toughest" run ever. Perhaps I could add "slowest" and most enjoyable "pain"...

Leaving Fairfield at 5:45 AM under the taunting broad grin of a Cheshire cat moon, I hoped all was in readiness. A hundred nagging questions tried to distract me from the orange glow silhouetting Mt. Diablo on the way to San Ramon to meet the others for the adventure to Yosemite. Some things you just can't fully comprehend until you experience them.

Steve Patt, Lauren Lechner and Jennifer Kulynych drove from the south bay to join us at John Nguyen's house in San Ramon. We shared photos, stories, bagels, maps and opinions, and agreed on a planned route and re-grouping points for today's adventure. Shortly after 7:30 AM we piled into the car and started our journey to the east.

Four hours and a few minutes later we all joked about getting lost already as we trotted aimlessly out of the parking lot at Curry Village looking for the road to Happy Isles and the trailhead. A kind British tourist graciously tried out each of our cameras at the Happy Isles Bridge, expressing gratitude for allowing him to experience "our park", as he put it.

It was past noon by the time we reached the trailhead where the climbing starts, perhaps 3/4M from the car. We started together, threading our way along the crowded path, which was wide enough to allow easy passing. We had decided to go up the Mist Trail by Vernal Falls. It was warm but not uncomfortable - perhaps 75F. It was steep but runable. The climb to Nevada Falls would be tough, but then the section through Little Yosemite Valley looked to be moderate on the topo map.

Any ideas of running all the way were forgotten long before reaching the first re-grouping point at the top of Nevada Falls. The iron sign at the trail junction read 2.5M to Yosemite Valley back along the Mist Trail, which meant I had averaged a blistering pace of 17 minutes per mile! Yet his was sufficient to stir admiration in some teenage hikers I had passed along the way. One said he was inspired by "Set Goals - not limits" on the back of the Mt Diablo Challenge t-shirt I was wearing.

Soon Steve arrived, followed a few minutes later by Lauren and Jennifer. As we gathered strength for the next section, a runner came down the trail. He said he was with a group of about 20 ultra runners from Santa Monica who had started from Tenaya Lake at 10 AM for the Valley. They had already passed Clouds Rest (9926 ft) and covered more than 10 miles. He told us some of his group had taken the "side trip" to Half Dome also. For the rest of the climb we would see several of these runners.

The moderate grade of the middle section was not the relief I had hoped for. The trail is loose sand several inches deep - very draining and slow. The 6000 ft elevation added to the sense of struggling fiercely at a snail's pace. I was grateful for the ample shade of pine forest along the Merced River and gentle slopes of Little Yosemite Valley.

I ran with Steve for a while. When the climbing started again I went ahead, letting the thought of Steve following right behind help keep me from walking too much. Up, and up, and up still more! The hikers are fewer, many carrying large packs. Still, I am amazed by the number of hardy individuals of all ages making their way up or down the trail.

Fifty-seven minutes after leaving John at Nevada Falls I reach the bottom of some stone steps leading up to the saddle where the cables begin. I can run no more. The path up the rock face is narrow and I willingly take my place in the long line of hikers plodding up these steps. The thought that someone positioned these heavy rocks, fitting them snugly and securely on the smooth granite face amazes me. Twelve minutes later I reach the base of the cables. One hour and 52 minutes of running and hiking, not counting a 35-minute rest at Nevada Falls. I cannot comprehend how Ken Olsen made it this far in 90 minutes back in 1989. Perhaps others have done it in less. Unimaginable!

Before me an ant trail disappears up the granite dome in slow motion along a pair of parallel cables. As I look up with shaky legs, I am frozen in a dilemma. Do I have the courage to attempt the climb? Will I be able to climb back down? Will I feel cheated if I don't go up? Will I ever have another chance like this? aaaarrrrrggghhhh!!!

I wait. I watch as ordinary people go up and come down. I see Steve talking to some hikers and offering salt tablets to one of them. 'Hey Steve!! Ya wanna go up?" Somehow we subtly bully each other into making the final climb. Steve goes first; I follow. After 19 minutes we're there. The top. We did it!! There are dozens of people around, lounging on rocks, watching climbers inch up the steep north face, taking pictures, basking in the warm sun. It could be a day at the beach - except the sea is 8800 ft below and a hundred miles away. I have lost all sense of time - staring at the panorama, drinking in the experience. Immense expanses of bare gray granite scraped and shaved by ancient ice, streaked and stained dark by melting snow; vast forests of pine wilderness with no trace of human presence; the high Sierras beyond, bleak and barren looking.

"Hi guys!" It's Jennifer! Wow!! Congratulations! And suddenly there's perspective - the realization of the incredible effort, the strength and commitment that brought us there. I feel filled with pride for my friends. Each of them could have made a dozen perfectly acceptable excuses for not attempting this. Well done!!

The jog back was leisurely, with several stops along the way. The air gradually cooled and darkness seeped into the glacier-carved crevasses. At Nevada Falls Steve saved the day with some salt tablets for my twinging muscles. Thanks Steve!! I might still be up there if not for your kindness! In just over 2 1/2 hours we were back at Curry Village - 6 1/2 hours and 17 miles after starting out. Half Dome shone above in the day's last light. It was beautiful.

Lauren Lechner wrote: This was my first trip to the park. The plan was to go over and back in the same day, and while we were there, run to the top of Half Dome and back. The specifics as to what this really meant escaped me - I thought I was just gonna get to do another long trail run in a very cool place with my friends.

Wrong!

I mean, it was a long trail run, it was a cool place, and I sure was with friends, but this was NOT just any old trail run! Debi actually tried to prepare me for the very last part of the Half Dome climb - the
part infamously known as The Cables - but nothing I heard could stir up the fear I felt when I finally reached that last section and saw it for myself. To make matters much worse, the cables were literally swarming with dozens and dozens of hikers, all clinging to the two lines and barely moving. Bottleneck City! It was past mid-afternoon, and the vast majority were descending. I just could not see myself trying to thread my way up - against the traffic - worrying about someone (perhaps me) losing their grip and causing the whole line to come down like a row of dominoes. No thanks!

So, after a few hot hours of some running, and a lot of serious hiking, Jennifer K and I reached the top of the rocks (at the base of the dome). I bid her to continue on that last part without me. We figured that Steve and Brad had already made the climb, and we knew John was still somewhere down below, so Jen was gonna go tell the fellas that I wasn't coming up.

At over 8000 feet, under unusually warm, clear blue, sunny skies, I reclined on the rocks to wait. At first I sat and watched Jen start the snail's pace ascent, then I turned my attention to the astounding views of the Sierra. Finally, I lay back and turned into a lizard for about 45 minutes - soaking up the sun and just napping. Now that was nice!

Jen's return reported the guys were in one piece. We decided to head right on down, knowing that they'd catch-up soon. (John, who was familiar with the whole route - the only one of us who had done it
before - was still planning on going up and coming back on his own.) Most of the descent (once we methodically climbed back off the base of the dome - it was bare rock but not quite as vertical as the cabled section) was runable, and we did just that. I was, of course, in my element at that point. I really enjoyed the technical sections - where rocks of all sizes, and roots, etc. made the going very tricky.

Make sure to take a tour of the Valley floor. A flat, paved bike trail winds through the eastern end of the valley.

Glacier Point: The view from Glacier Point provides an opportunity to see Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, and the High Sierra from its rim. From Yosemite Valley, take Highway 41 fourteen miles to the Chinquapin junction, and then turn left onto Glacier Point Road. Road is generally open from late spring through late fall. If the road is closed at Badger Pass, you can continue to Mariposa Grove for a longer ride. At this point, there has already been a lot of climbing, and the route to the Grove includes a lot more.

Mariposa Grove and Wawona: The Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias is located 36 miles south of Yosemite Valley via Highway 41, two miles from the park's South Entrance Station. After lots of climbing, it is a relief to approach Wawona and see the historic hotel and beautiful meadow area. There is a store to refuel and take a break, or keep going to the Grove, about six more miles. The last two miles are uphill and winding, watch for auto traffic. The tram is a great way to see the oldest Sequoia, you can relax and refuel while enjoying the tour, about 30 minutes, (one hour if the upper groves are open.) The path to the trees is three miles of rollers round-trip, with over 1,000 feet in elevation gain, obviously not recommended in cleats. You may leave your bike at the ticket station, and the operator will watch it for you.

Helpful Hiking Information: Things to take and images of the cables on Half Dome. Although you probably won't need all the supplies, there are useful tips to help prepare for the run.

Hikes in Yosemite Valley Area: Easy, intermediate, and advanced hikes for all to enjoy. General overview map.

National Park Service home page.

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