Sausage


A few years ago, my wife started paying closer attention to the content labels on commercially processed foods and began to pick and choose what she ate a little more carefully. As for store-bought frankfurters and other sausages, she refused to eat 'em...she said it not only had something to do with the list of chemicals and preservatives on the labels, but also something to do with not knowing the origin (and she wasn't talking about geography) of the "meat" that went into 'em. So, she bought a meat grinder and sausage stuffer to add to the growing list of attachments for her KitchenAid and turned me loose to make sausage...only insisting that I use fresh, natural ingredients. I don't think we've eaten store-bought sausage or ground meat since.

Equipment

While it might be possible to chop the ingredients fine enough for some sausages using very sharp knives, a grinder (either hand or electric powered) with at least a couple of disks (fine and medium) will make sausage-making a lot easier...and unless bulk sausage is the desired end product, a sausage funnel or stuffing attachment for the grinder is necessary to stuff the ground meat/seasoning mixture into the casings. But just because one doesn't have these things shouldn't dissuade anyone from making their own sausage, it just limits what can be made to such sausages as bulk-style country sausage or Mexican chorizo.

Whatever equipment is used, including cutting boards, mixing bowls, stiring spoons, and measuring utensils, cleanliness is absolutely necessary. Keep everything clean and sanitary, particularly when cutting, grinding or mixing fresh meat!

Casings

The subject of sausage casings can be a bit much for the squeamish. Natural casings usually come from the intestines of hogs, cows, or sheep...with hog casings being the most common. Whatever the choice, they all should be kept refrigerated or frozen until used.  While the casings are cleaned before being distributed to the public, they should be rinsed inside and out by the consumer to remove any salt or other impurities.

Other types of casings are available. Collagen casings are made of natural, edible protein but are a bit more expensive than natural casings from animal intestines. For the really squeamish, muslin casings are easily made at home....and if using casings of any kind is undesirable, forget the casings and make bulk sausage.

Meat

Most sausage recipes call for pork, beef, veal, or some combination of those meats. The meat should be fresh...one of the reasons I started making my own sausage was because of stories I'd heard about some commercial outlets taking back meat that hadn't sold and grinding it to resell as ground meat or sausage. If you're going to use old meat, you might as well take your chances with store-bought sausage. However, there is no reason why fresh meat can't be frozen and then defrosted to use for making sausage, but it should be cut or gound before it becomes thoroughly defrosted. Fresh meat that hasn't been previously frozen, on the other hand, should be partially frozen before using to make it easier to cut or grind. The meat should be of good quality, but it doesn't have to come from "gourmet" cuts...tougher cuts are ok, but make sure you remove and discard any tooth-rattling gristle or bone.

Most sausage recipes also call for some additional fat, but that doesn't mean sausage must be fatty. One of the best reasons for making your own sausage is the opportunity to establish your own desired fat to meat ratio. Unless using very lean cuts of meat, there will already be some fat included; therefore, additional fat might not be necessary. I usually try for a ratio of one part fat to five parts meat. Keep in mind that sausage made too lean will end up dry.

Spices, herbs, flavorings and other ingredients

These ingredients are a very small part of the total ingredients that go into making sausage, but they are SO important in the success of the finished product. Try to picture a sausage made from nothing but ground meat with no additional flavorings...ugh! Each type of sausage includes its own combination of additional flavorings...that's what makes it unique. Either dried or fresh herbs and spices can be used, with practicality being the only limitation on the use of fresh. Keep in mind that the flavor of some fresh herbs and spices can be a bit more subtle than their dried counterpart...the amounts used should be adjusted upward acordingly.

Some recipes call for liquid flavorings such as liquid smoke, vinegar, wine vinegar, wine and even alcoholic beverages or liquors. Whether to use such things or not is up to personal taste or situation; but, keep in mind the moisture and flavor they add might be necessary for the end product to be juicy, tender and tasty...consider using a suitable substitute if using the liquid called for is undesirable.

Sometimes recipes call for "extenders" such as bread, eggs, and milk. These indgredients should be considered as more than extenders...they are usually there for added moisture or a desirable texture...don't leave them out.

Preservatives

Unless making cured sausages -- salami, pepperoni, or other smoked and/or dried sausages -- the subject of preservatives isn't that important. When making fresh sausages, salt and sugar (both of which have some preservative qualities) can be added as desired and the use of other chemical preservatives isn't really necessary.  Fresh sausage should be used within 2 to 3 days of making or frozen for later use.

The chemical additives generally used for cured meats and sausages include sodium nitrite and sodium nitrate. They are necessary in commercially preserved foods to prevent botulism and other nasty food born diseases that can ruin one's day. It's also a factor in keeping preserved foods fresh and tasty looking instead of spoiled and nasty looking. I don't overindulge in commercially prepared smoked meats, sausage, ham, bacon, corned beef, or lunch meats -- so I figure the possible (but fairly remote) risk associated with occasional consumption of nitrates and nitrites is much less of a problem than the generally more definite and imediate risk of the consumption, even occasionally, of foods "put by" without using proper preparation and/or preserving methods; and then, as if to add insult to injury, the food is stored in less-than-proper ways.

That said...when making sausage of any kind, whether using chemical preservatives or not, make sure you keep the equipment clean and sanitary, the fresh ingredients properly stored, and consume the finished sausage within a reasonable amount of time or store any unused sausage in an appropriate manner according to the type of sausage.   If you adhere to such storage guidelines, you shouldn't run into any problems with spoiled food or other possible hazards to your health.


Hot Dogs

Throw some homemade franks on the grill, put 'em between sliced homemade country-style rolls, slather 'em with the condiments of your choice, and wash 'em down with a few homemade brews...mmmm, mmm, good stuff!

1.0 pound - pork (shoulder, butt, whatever...)
1.0 pound - beef (round, chuck, brisket...)
0.5 - onion, finely minced
1.0 - clove of garlic, peeled and finely diced
0.5 teaspoon - coarse salt
1.0 teaspoon - finely ground coriander
0.25 teaspoon - dried marjoram
0.25 teaspoon - ground mace
0.25 teaspoon - ground mustard seed
1.5 teaspoons - sweet paprika
1.0 teaspoon - finely ground white pepper
0.25 teaspoon - ground cayenne chile
1.0 - egg white
1.5 teaspoons - sugar (or as desired)
0.5 teaspoon - salt (or as desired)
0.25 cup - milk
0.25 teaspoon - liquid smoke (optional)
fat as needed for desired fat/meat ratio
hog casings as needed
Sprinkle diced garlic clove with .5 teaspoon coarse salt and thoroughly smash with the tines of a dinner fork. Puree onion, garlic, and milk in a blender. In a mixing bowl, combine puree with egg white, salt, pepper, sugar, spices and optional liquid smoke. Mix thoroughly. Grind the pork, beef, and optional fat separately through a fine grinding blade. Thoroughly mix the ground meat and fat and grind once more through the fine grinder blade. Mix the puree/seasonings mixture and ground meat/fat mixture in a bowl with moist fingers until well mixed. Chill the meat/seasoning mixture for about an hour and grind through the fine grinder blade once more. Stuff the casings, twisting into approximately 6 inch links. Refrigerate the links for a few hours or overnight to allow the flavors to blend. Parboil the links without separating them for about 25 to 30 minutes. Drain and store refrigerated for up to a week. Since the sausage links are pre-cooked, they can be used as-is without further cooking in recipes calling for frankfurters...or they can be grilled on a barbeque as one would grill commercial hot dogs.



Hot Country-Style Sausage
 

2.5  pounds - boneless pork butt or shoulder
2.5  teaspoons - dried sage
2.0  teaspoons - coarse salt
1.5  teaspoons - ground white pepper
1.5  teaspoons - dried marjoram
0.5 teaspoon - dried thyme
0.5  teaspoon - dried summer savory
1.0  teaspoon - crushed red chile
0.5  teaspoon - ground cayenne chile
0.75 teaspoon - sugar
pork fat as necessary to make a 2-to-1 (or as desired) meat to fat ratio
Cut the meat (and fat, if necessary) into chunks.  Spread out on a pie pan or cookie sheet and place in the freezer to chill (not long enough to freeze, just long enough to become firm).  Grind the meat and fat together twice, using a coarse blade.  Add the spices to the meat and fat mixture and knead it in thoroughly.  Cover and refrigerate at least a couple of hours or overnight.  The sausage can be stuffed into prepared casings or formed into patties or appropriate bulk portions and refrigerated for up to 3 days before use after which any remaining should be frozen.



Mexican-Style Chorizo

Unlike Spanish chorizo, which is cured and smoked, Mexican-style chorizo is a fresh sausage that must be kept refrigerated and used within a few days after it's made. It can be made as a bulk sausage or stuffed in casings. Any unused sausage can be frozen; but, like most processed pork products, it doesn't survive lengthy frozen storage very well and should be used within a month or two.
 

Rich's Classic Mexican-Style Chorizo

2.0 pounds - boneless pork shoulder, loin, or butt
3.0 ounces - dried New Mexico chiles
2.0 - chiles de arbol
0.5 - medium onion, coarsly chopped
1.0 tablespoon - paprika
2.0 teaspoons - Mexican oregano, well crumbled
1.0 - garlic clove
1.5 teaspoons - coarse salt
0.75 teaspoon - ground cumin
0.5 teaspoon - ground cayenne chile
0.25 cup - red wine vinegar
as needed - pork fat to accomodate desired meat to fat ratio (optional)
Cut the meat (and fat, if necessary) into chunks. Spread out on a pie pan or cookie sheet and place in the freezer to chill (not long enough to freeze, just long enough to become firm). Toast the chiles and garlic on a comal. Remove the stems (and seeds if desired) and soak the chiles in warm water until soft. Place the chiles and onion in a blender, add the red wine vinegar, and whirl until smooth (a little of the original soaking water can be added if the consistency is too thick). Grind the meat and fat together twice, using a coarse blade. Remove the skin from the garlic clove, finely dice it, spinkle it with coarse salt, and crush it with the back of a dinner fork. Add garlic, chile puree, and spices to meat in a large bowl and mix well. Cover and refrigerate at least a couple of hours or overnight.

After allowing the flavors to blend, the sausage can be stuffed into prepared casings or formed into patties or bulk portions of appropriate size and refrigerated up to for 3 or 4 days before use after which any remaining should be used or frozen.

Note #1: Other dried chiles such as ancho, mulato and pasilla can be used as well as New Mexico (or even a combination of such chiles). A dried whole cayenne chile toasted and soaked with the other chiles could be used in place of the ground cayenne chile powder.

Note #2: Since fennel seed is more often associated with Italian sausage and doesn't generally show up in Mexican chorizo recipes, I didn't include it in the list of ingredients above. However, I like the spicy sweetness it lends to the flavor of sausage and usually include about a teaspoon of crushed fennel seed to the above recipe.
 

Christmas 2000 Mexican Chorizo

Being short on time a couple of years ago when making Mexican chorizo for the traditional Christmas Huevos con Chorizo, I went a more simple route...but, what I ended up with was pretty darn tasty.
 

1 lb ground pork
1 tsp salt
2 cloves garlic, kosher crushed
1 tsp red wine vinegar
1 tblsp red wine
2 tsp brandy
2 tblsp ancho chile powder
1/4 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp crushed Mexican oregano
1/2 tsp ground pepper
1/2 tsp crushed fennel seed
1/4 tsp ground cayenne


Mix all ingredients together and set aside in refrigerator for several hours to let flavors to blend.


Bratwurst
 

2 pounds pork
1/4 tsp ground allspice
1/2 tsp crushed caraway seeds
1/2 tsp dried marjoram
1/4 tsp cayenne
1 ts ground white pepper
1 ts salt, or to taste
1/4 tsp ground fresh nutmeg
1 tsp sugar
1 tblsp malty ale
1 tsp brandy
hog casings


Prepare the casings. Grind the pork through coarse grind plate twice.  Blend spices and mix into meat.  Add ale and brandy and mix in.  Stuff the mixture into casings and  twist off into four to five-inch lengths.  Refrigerate for up to three days or freeze for later use.  Bratwursts can be simmered in ale and then pan fried or grilled over charcoal.


Hot Italian Pepper Sausage
 

3 lbs pork
1 clove garlic, salt crushed
1 onion, coarsely chopped
2 tblsp roasted and peeled green chile, chopped
1/4 tsp thyme
2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp fennel seed, coarsely crushed
2 tsp crushed dried red chile
1/4 tsp coriander, coarsely crushed
1 tblsp salt
1 cup red wine
2 tsp paprika
Prepare the casings. Grind the pork through coarse grind plate.  Mix in onion, garlic and green chiles.  Grind mixture through coarse plate once more.  Blend spices and mix into meat.  Add red wine and mix in.  Stuff
the sausage mixture into casings and  twist off into four to five-inch lengths.  Refrigerate for up to three days or freeze for later use.  Italian sausage can be grilled over charcoal or cut into pieces and sauted for use in Italian style meat sauces.


Ground Meat

After hearing too many stories about older, unsold cuts of meat being taken back and ground up along with fresher trimmings to be repackaged as ground meat for commercial sale, I decided to start using our grinding attachment for the Kitchen Aid to make my own homeground beef.  Since ground meat is more parishable for both refrigerator and freezer storage, we can also buy whole cuts of fresh meat at "sale" prices and freeze it for longer periods of time for grinding later.  By grinding our own we can also choose the type of meat we want to use and control the fat to meat ratio to suit our prefrerence, which for us is somewhere between 15 and 20 percent.

I usually cut partially frozen pieces of meat into strips about an inch wide on both sides and 5 or 6 inches long. I put the still slightly frozen strips of meat through a medium grinding plate and then run the ground meat through the same blade again.  Once ground, it can be stored in the refrigerator for a day or two before using.  If the meat was fresh and not previously frozen (except for the partial freezing to facilitate easier grinding) the ground meat can be divided into desirable portions, wrapped in freezer wrap or placed in freezer bags, and frozen for 2 or 3 months before use.  If the meat was previously frozen, it should be used up and not refrozen.


Copyright © 2002, by Rich McCormack
Send comments and questions to macknet@pacbell.net

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