Camera
Basics...
The Bad
Virtually all (exception listed below) regular 8mm cameras are non-battery
powered. Some of the cheaper cameras have a wind up spring that runs
fastest when first run and gradually slows to a complete stop when wound
down. These are the cameras to avoid. Makes like Keystone, Bell and
Howell, Kodak, or basically any other camera made in the USA falls into
this category.
The
Good
Better cameras had an auto-stop feature when the spring could no longer
power the required frame rate (typically 16 frames per second). Bolex,
Nikon and Canon models come to mind here. The Bolex H8 is considered
by some to be the grand-daddy of 8mm cameras. With its clockwork mechanism,
sharp Switar lenses, and the capability to shoot 100-foot rolls (200
feet when processed) made for an exciting, if somewhat cantankerous,
camera to use. 
The Just Plain
Cool
The latest
cameras (produced in the very late 1950's and early 1960's) were
powered by
AA batteries, typically used the PX-13 or PX-14 battery for the light
meter, and carried zoom lenses. The Leicina with its 8-48mm Variogon
zoom lens could be considered one of the most electronic variations
of the 8mm-camera era. Cameras made by Bolex (P1, P2, P3, P4, K2,
S2,
etc), Leicina (three models of Lecina's), Canon's 512 (not to be confused
with the 512XL in their super 8 lineup), the Bauer Electric 8, and
Nikon's Nikkorex all fall into this category
depending
upon
your
tastes.
Common
to all 8mm cameras is their weight! There are virtually no lightweight
cameras
when it comes to 8mm. All the cameras are made of metal. That's why
they are still around as of year 2003! They simply keep on ticking
as
the ad says!
Lenses
come in a wide variety. Most cameras have fixed lenses or a turret mount
of two or (more typically) three different fixed-focal-length lenses.
Bolex
cameras and a few other makes used what is known as a "D" mount lens.
It is about 13mm in diameter and a screw mount. Many manufacturers of
lenses existed at the height of the 8mm craze. Names like Soligor, Som
Berthiot, Angenieux, Wollensak, Elgeet, Yvar, Switar, Lytar, Pan Cinor
are just a few of the mid- to high-end makes.
Film and Processing...
Black and white (Plus-X and Tri-X) as well as color (Ektachrome and
Kodachrome) film is still available for regular 8mm cameras! Film is
available from (carried in stock, too) either John Schwind's INTERNATIONAL
FILM BROKERS (jaschwind@ucdavis.edu) [P.O. Box 1233, Dixon, California,
95620] or Martin Baumgarten's PLATTSBURGH PHOTOGRAPHIC SERVICES (super8mm@aol.com)
[18 Elm Street, Plattsburgh, New York 12901]. Prices for regular 8mm
film are comparable to those of super 8mm. Recent film stocks available
are Cinechrome 25, Cinecolor Tungsten 125, Cine-X 50 B&W, and Super
Cine-X 200 B&W.
Processing
B&W 8mm film is the same price as that of super 8mm. Most labs offer
both super 8mm and 8mm film black and white processing. Color film is
sometimes difficult to get processed so I send mine to Martin (Baumgarten).
He offers a superb service and always cleans and lubricates each film
he handles! Well worth the extra dollar or two. I originally tried to
send my regular 8mm film to Kodak with specific instructions on the
form but they still sent it back. I ultimately sent it to Martin and
he forwarded it to Kodak, received it back, split the film and added
leaders to both ends. An excellent service: first rate!
Projectors...
Regular 8mm projectors came in a huge variety! Many are desirable simply
in terms of their avant-garde design. Looking like some creature of
a sci-fi pulp magazine, these machines show American ingenuity at its
height in the 1950's.
Preferable
in today's more earth-bound requirements, I would suggest a more modern
super 8mm projector that offers dual 8 format capability.
Please
note: regular 8mm has different sprocket holes and picture area compared
to super 8mm. You CANNOT run 8mm film on a super 8mm projector. The
projector must have a switchable gate/claw as well as different sprockets
for the 8mm film to run properly. And, in case you were wondering, you
CANNOT run super 8mm film in a regular 8mm projector! In either case
you will simply shred your precious film to itty-bitty pieces!
A
word of caution on old projectors. First, be careful with the old electrical
cords. Be sure to have a qualified
electrician inspect the machine for proper safety requirements. Also,
some older bulbs are almost non-existent so you may have an obsolete
machine once the projector bulb gives out! I personally know the CXL/CXR
bulb is all but impossible to find. Hence, that is why I recommend a
dual 8mm format projector.
More
to come...
Remember,
life is what happens while you are planning other things.
