If you want to know of one of the best deals in super 8mm filmmaking, consider the Nikon 8X Super Zoom. Not to be confused with earlier versions, this camera is distinguished by its 7.5-60mm f1.8 lens - a configuration that seems to have become the norm for many super 8 cameras that follow ed. The lens benefits from its 52mm filter thread by allowing you to use filters and attachments you may already have in your Nikon 35mm system. In fact, a trip down to any camera store will allow you to buy neutral density filters, circular polarizers, whatever you want. Not many super 8 cameras offer this standard thread size.

The reason I say this is one of the best deals in town is due to its very reasonable price found on online auctions. While the earlier models typically always go for under $40, this model can be found for about $20-$60 depending upon demand and condition. I paid $63 but then I wanted it since it came with an original box and instructions and I needed it for this website. I am sure you can find similar deals.

The controls are very simple. It offers 12, 18 and the all important 24fps settings. The round button is actually a cover for the 1/8th mini plug that allows remote filming via a switch. The 8X has a fully manual aperture (and fully automatic with two PX-13 1.35 volt batteries). The fact that you can set it manually without batteries in the camera is very important. Also, a little known fact is that the light meter operates a DIFFERENT aperture than the manual setting. Note, most super 8 cameras simply have the manual mode move the same light closing leafs (or claw) as when the camera is in auto mode. Not so with the Nikon 8X Super Zoom. Here's what I mean: The manual setting moves a v-like claw (or leaf) in front of the path of light hitting the film. However, in auto mode, there are two v-like claws that form a diamond when closing down to f16. These auto-claws are located BEHIND the manual single v-claw. Very strange. I have heard that the diamond approach to closing down the aperture (to f16) results in sharper images than a single v-claw at the same f-stop. I will have to give it a try once I run some film through this camera to see if this is true. I will keep you posted.

The fun part of this outfit are the accessories that allow this camera (or the Nikon R8) to be fitted to a microscope. Now you can create interesting images of unobservable amoebas and other critters for use in your movies. The EC-1 close up lens is a huge hunk of glass that is mounted to the front element of either the R8 or the 8X. Interestingly, you cannot use the macro mode of the R8 to eliminate the need for the EC-1. I was a bit surprised by this fact. The microscope adapter, the EM-1, is a nice unit and has a lens deep in the middle of the barrel. You can see the quality of this element when you look through it with the naked eye - the razor sharp lines will surprise you. Now all I have to do is track down a basic microscope that takes a 30mm or a 23.2mm eyepiece. Couple this with the modern use of LED lighting and you should be able to capture some pretty interesting things!

On the film door side, the gate is of the single-claw pulldown variety. Only in the R8 or the R10 do you get the dual-claw pulldown in the film gate. The ASA is automatically adjustable: 10, 16, 25, 40, 64, 100, 160. and 250. There are no other controls on this side of the camera. On the bottom, there is a screw holding the light battery door in place. The PX-13 batteries are placed side by side in a special holder that is part of the battery door. To the rear of the camera is a remote release for single frame filming. There is a matching one on the front of the camera for continuous filming. The eyepiece cannot be closed off to light so some manual method must be used (duct tape, for example). The instructions are clear on this point: "It is advisable to cover the finder eyepiece with cloth or something." Also, you may experience a couple of white frames when remote filming. It appears the shutter does not always stop in the closed position when using the remote control, at least according to the instructions: "This is because of the camera mechanism, and not of camera trouble."

The camera runs on 4 AA batteries that are held in the folding hand grip. The camera is well balanced and will actually stand on its handle if you do it right. It goes to show some thought was put into its construction from a user perspective. Of course, the camera is completely metal in construction and very solid. A bit heavy by today's ultra-light standards but that will pay off in steadier images, especially if you use the 24fps setting. For all of this metal, it is interesting to note the camera has two small pieces of leather on it: on the cover of the shaft that allows the handgrip to fold. I mention this so that in case you looking for this camera on line, you will not have to worry about it deteriorating in appearance like some of the Bolex's tend to do if not cared for properly.

Again, this camera is often looked over by collectors due to its old school design and appearance. It does not have the stylish appeal of Nizo or Bauer but it does its job well and reliably. In fact, I would be willing to bet this camera will still be running long after the little rubber belts in the Bauers and Nizos have broken or become too loose to be functional. I speak from experience here: my Bauer 715 microcomputer camera is in limbo due to one teeny, tiny belt.