Yosemite's Back Country

1.

It was remarkable how easy it was to drive to the mountains after one had driven there quite a few times. The road frequently traveled tends to become short; I think we all have the same feeling time and again in our life. All the routes and roads seemed familiar thus didn’t appear as endless as the first time. It helped that the week day traffic was largely non-existent. As a result, we got to White Wolf Lodge just shortly after 1 pm. The only drag was that the check in time didn't start until 3 pm. So, we were stuck between a rock and a hard place.

There was no crowd thus parking was relatively easy and free. We decided to have a quick picnic at a camp site to take advantage of the unoccupied picnic table. The afternoon breeze brought nothing but sweet feeling to the shades under tall pine trees.

After lunch, we still had a couple of hours in hand; so, we decided to take a walk along one of the trails.

2.

All the trails in the Yosemite National Park were well maintained with clear signs of distances and destinations. We chose Lukens Lake because that it had the shortest distance, 2.3 miles one way. Our maiden voyage had to be short and easy.

With a camera in hand and battery freshly charged, I was a bit disappointed at the beginning because the trail started out flat in a seemingly endless expansive forest floor that wasn’t about to tilt in any direction. We were deep into the Sierra Nevada thus I was expecting huge rocks and mind-bogging sights. An altitude of 8,000 feet shouldn’t be this modest. I was ready for wilderness. This trail was too sweet and tender and didn't have the feel of the high mountains at all. I couldn’t really say much for fear to damp the spirit of the group. I compromised by taking pictures of anything that struck my eye: a wild plant that grew to 3-4 feet tall with wide leaves caught my eyes (and later I had to delete that shot to make room for other more spectacular views). I started to get warm when I encountered a few rocks lying peacefully on the forest floor. My disappointment receded completely when I realized that I was standing in the middle of huge alpine meadows surrounded by tall trees, a once in a life experience for me. In whatever direction I turned, the world was filled with wild flowers of purple, blue and yellow colors, all smiling and thriving. The afternoon sun cast the perfect light onto their sweet gestures. I was trigger-happy and started to blame myself for not having enough photographic skills to capture all the beauty that Mother Nature generously lavished onto us.

The trail crisscrossed with a small creek as clear water ran over rocks and sands here and there. After a while it dawned to us that we were on a trail that was built along a creek that trickled down from Lukens Lake, our destination du jour. Fish swam leisurely in the creek but my camera couldn't capture any image of them because the water creatures took on the color of the riverbed and other surroundings to defend themselves from being spotted by other animals. All of us had water-proof sandals on thus could wash our feet in cool water whenever the creek and the trails crisscrossed. The hike became rather interesting.

3.

To me, the astonishing aspect of the forest was not how tall those pine trees were still standing. All the trees competed to tower over each other for more exposure to the sun and their sheer heights and sizes were awe-inspiring. What caught my attention was the huge number of trees that were fallen. Trees of hundred feet fell down, dead but not yet completely decomposed. I knew that lugging in the national park was strictly prohibited by law. Trees are federal property, standing or fallen. I wasn't dwelling so much on how to utilize those trees to aide human needs, like building thousands of shelters so all the homeless in the world would be smiling with happiness. Trees belong to the forest; any crack of the law would open a floodgate of who got what. That would spell disaster to all the trees and mountains, animals and plants, alike. Had that happened, we wouldn’t have been able to come today. There in the middle of an expansive forest of huge pine trees, I had the leisure and pleasure trying to place the age old philosophical question in my mind and in the natural surrounding: if a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make really a sound?

4.

The trail finally had some degree of uphill roughness, though it didn’t last long. When we climbed over the little ridge, there was Lukens Lake, like a beautiful virgin sunning her sweet self amidst green grass, huge meadows and tall ridges of rocks and pine trees. Did she hear the fall of those trees in the forest? Ah, she is too peaceful to speak.

The afternoon sun was at an excellent angle to highlight the lush green of the grass with a touch of golden hue. The water which reflected the surroundings gave out this precious color of emerald green. Without thinking, we soaked our feet in the water to savor the cool sensation of the mountain spring water. On the loop walk around the lake, we saw millions of blue dragonflies hopping and skipping grass blades, flowers, and the mirror like water. This corner of the world was their heaven, a place so sweet and gentle. Many conversations were held amongst them beautiful creatures and yet there was not a sound to be heard. Time seemed to have stopped in attempt to listen to those tiny prattles of serene beauty.

5.

Water slowly sipped into the Lake from under the grass, as we discovered during our walk. A large territory of marshland at the other end of the lake was nurtured by the trickling water that came down from higher places. Delicious water of great purity kept the grass green and lush and the lake full, still and glittering, a picture of heavenly beauty, of great harmony, and of dreamlike quality.

We came back to the Lodge around 5 pm and got our cabin. The condition was all right but not really worth the rate. The bathroom was equipped with showers, and cabin had firewood and a close-in fireplace. We brought our little grill with us. Dinner took a while but at the end it was delicious. The watermelon bought from a fruit stand on the way here was juicy and thirst-quenching. The only hardship came when the cold night settled in and made it hard to sleep, with the fire burning even. In order to be close to nature and her grandeur, a little discomfort was definitely worth the endurance.

6.

Unlike overnight camping trips, the living condition was comfortable and the schedule on the easy side. The next day we decided to take on a longer hike. The trail mark told us that Hardin Lake would be some 5 plus miles away. That would make a whole day trip, factoring in lunch and soaking in the water. What we didn’t know was that the route we took was a fire trail that led us to Hardin Lake in about 2.8 miles. Hey, nobody was complaining about the shortcut.

We were allured to this route largely because of the Tuolumne River that ran parallel to the trail. The river provided great music and was marvelously scenic. Huge rocks tried to confine the flow of the water and the water always found its way around or over them. The morning sun put everything in the proper light, the world was simply gorgeous. Smiles were on the flowers and people’s faces.

7.

Before we found the Lake, I the cameraman found myself standing in the middle of one of the largest meadows of this trip. It was filled with vigorous flowers and tall plants. Butterflies fluttered around; dragonflies were skipping about; birds were chirping; chipmunks were running, as if celebrating the tender sunlight of the morning. The world was incredibly alive and thriving. I wouldn’t mind staying there for a long, long time.

Hardin Lake hid in seclusion amidst many fallen trees and burnt stumps. There was no visible water source to be found and the water level seemed to be receding. A spring flood had left a large pond here. In June the lake was rather shallow, with rocks of all sizes in and out of the lake. The water was so clear that the rocks in the water made the lake look like a mosaic painting by a master hand.

Sitting on one of the rocks above the water surface while soaking my feet in the water, the world had become more soothing to the body and soul. A concert of birds and many other insects was at its full blown stage. Whichever direction I turned, I was met with flowers of all kinds basking in the sun, proud and yet so humble. The pine forest was so quiet at this hour; butterflies seemed to be the only ones which couldn’t stop dancing amongst blooms of all sizes and colors.

It was there that I felt closer to the High Sierras than ever. When I traveled to Yosemite Valley, Lake Tahoe, Sequoia National Park, and other more scenic spots, I felt that the astonishing views kept me on my toes. I paid attention but still felt so close and yet so far away. Only here in the back country the majestic mountains took everyone and everything in. Together with trees, rivers and creeks, flowers and insects, lakes and marshland, we all become one, a world of beauty and peace. I loved this feeling the most.

8.

The trail marks was meant for hikers to take another route through hills and over the ridges. We were ignorant. As a result, the fire trail turned out to be a significant shortcut thus came back to the cabin around 2 pm. An early afternoon nap was delicious.

When we woke up, there was still plenty of time for another expedition. This time we decided to drive; after all, the feet and legs got bruises and cramps. Olmstead Point wasn't too far from White Wolf. I remembered a few years ago that we drove there and saw the spectacular back view of the Half Dome of Yosemite Valley. This was one of the most scenic drives of the entire world, with big rock peaks and deep rock gorges on both sides. Small lakes and tall pine trees were all over the place.

Originally I wanted to take a look at Tanaya Lake but the afternoon was winding down and we had a dinner reservation to honor back at the lodge. It was inevitable that one would miss not one but many spectacular sights while exploring the High Sierras. There was so much to see.

Before the drive, I went outside to wait for others to get ready as the cabin was too small and the air was too stuffy. In the middle of the many cabins, there were some huge boulders and trees. I spotted a couple of marmosets, skittish and swift, very cautious and very brave. One went up a huge boulder and scouted the surroundings and seemed to give the other a look, the other then came up. They advanced in a deliberate and swift way. I was mesmerized by their mannerism and the color scheme. Marmosets looked like squirrels but 10 times bigger. I had no idea what they were exactly. So, I thought they were badgers. It made me feel slightly bad because I remembered that back in China one of my cousins once hunted down a badger or two in the Qinling Mountains. The meat was delicious. Any meat was delicious in an age of starvation ...

9.

This had to be one of the easiest trips in recent memory, though not the least scenic. The third day we took off to drive home. Along the way, we took a detour to venture into the Yosemite Valley. I wished to steal a look of the majestic granite valley of gigantic mountains and waterfalls. It was marvelous idea. Yosemite never disappointed.

We got home around 2:30 and the minds seemed to be wandering the mountains a week after.

July 2, 2007