Bill Straka's Pages

Climbing-related


Back to Bill's Home Page

I have put in a few photos with a couple comments. I have big plans to someday add more.-

Currently member of American Alpine Club and Loma Prieta Chapter Rock Climbing Section, and Associate Member of American Mountain Guides Association.

Formerly member of Cal Tech Alpine Club, UCLA Bruin Mountaineers, Angeles Chapter Rock Climbing Section

My parents introduced me to the outdoors early in life. This is at the start of a horsepacking trip on the White Mountain Apache reservation, in Whiteriver, Arizona, at the age of 10 months, with my mother obviously controlling the horse.

 
 
 
 

Some friends of mine and I got inspired to get into climbing in 1953 by Tenzing and Hillary getting up Everest. This is my friend Paul (left) and me, taken by Jerry, after we climbed a route on the Camel's Head in Phoenix, AZ. The approach was (literally) through Barry Goldwater's back yard. We had gotten some manila rope at a local hardware store, but no real climbing gear. Body rappels with a manila rope are a real experience!
 
 
 

In the summer of 1956, I hiked the trail to the top of Mt Whitney. This is my father and me at the trailhead at Whitney Portal, setting out for Mirror Lake, where we camped for the night. I headed for the summit the next morning at dawn, while my father turned back. A few days later, I hiked from Glacier Lodge to the Palisade Glacier and climbed Mt Sill (solo). Some Angeles RCS folks, hiking in later that day to do some climbs, talked to my family and were rather horrified to hear of this 15 year old kid soloing up Sill. I met them on my way out. About 10 years later, some of these same folks elected me Vice Chair of their group.
 

This is me on the Switchbacks at Tahquitz. From 1957 to 1970 I spent a lot of time at Tahquitz, Yosemite, and various parts of the Sierra, starting while I was working as Nature Counselor at Camp Emerson in Idylwild (just below Tahquitz). On weekends between camp sessions, one of my fellow junior counselors and I would hike up to the rock, do some scrambling, and beg climbs.
 
 
 
 

Palisades, Sierra Nevada, Thanksgiving 1963. That's Vivian Mendenhall lower down, with me higher up, Gayley and Sill in the background. The others in the group were Frank Sarnquist, Bruce Kuehbler, and George Tauxe. We had great plans to climb, but that was a fairly early snow year, so our progress was a bit slow. The highlight of the trip was Thanksgiving dinner, cooked over our Sveas - turkey, dressing, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes and gravy, plum pudding. The rest of the meals were great, too.
 
 
 
 

This is a little climb near Chamonix in the French Alps in the summer of 1964. Tom Higgins, Bud Couch, and I had found a cheap flight to Europe (thanks to student fares). Tom and Bud had gone first to Wales, then met me in Cham. Tom shot this photo of me. Note the hiking boots - made the climb a bit more challenging. A week or so after this photo, Bud headed for Austria and I headed for Zermatt to meet Clarke and do the Matterhorn.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

This photo of the Matterhorn was taken the evening before I hiked up to the Hornlihutte to do the climb in July 1964. The night in the hut was also marked by a really spectacular storm, but by the time Clarke and I set out at 2AM, it was clear, and the day was perfect.  
 
 
 
 
 

On the summit of the Matterhorn. That's Clarke in the foreground and me taking my Terray duvet out (or putting it back in) my pack. I was getting lunch or something. Obviously there is a very different set of temperature perceptions, since Clarke is in T-shirt as is the guy at the far back, while I have a wool shirt on, as does the guy at the bottom right. There were about 70 people on the summit at the time.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Looking down the Hornligrat as we started our descent from the summit of the Matterhorn. Great view, all the way back down to Zermatt!
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello, Mr. Bear. During Spring Break, 1967, a number of us were hanging out at Camp 4 in Yosemite. Kor and Lauria were getting set to do the Leaning Tower, having drafted several of us into helping sherpa gear to the base. At breakfast, Don's wife asked if we had noticed the bear, pointing to this tree about 30 feet from where we were sitting. We shot pictures, then continued with our breakfast. Soon the tourists started gathering with their dogs at the foot of the tree. Mr. Bear decided to leave the tree and hopped to the ground to survey the situation. The tourist circle drew back about 15 feet. Mr. Bear decided to head for the meadow and started for that side of the people circle. The tourists (maybe 40 or 50 by this time) opened up a path, then closed in behind the bear, chasing him across the road and into the meadow.

 

This was on Lower Cathedral Spire, on a route people tell me is 5.9. Didn't seem that hard. I spent a number of Easter weeks in the Valley, and Thanksgiving, and a few other times, too. We always stayed in Camp 4 -

As you may know, the Yosemite redevelopment plans threaten to drastically alter the character of Camp 4 (also known as Sunnyside) with expansion of Yosemite Lodge and employee housing intruding into or immediately adjacent to it. As of May 2000, Camp 4 has had its name changed back to the original "Camp 4" designation. But there are still threats to the integrity of Camp 4 and climbing in the Valley. So --
 

SUPPORT THE ACCESS FUND!!! JOIN NOW!!

This is Tom Higgins on The Last Judgment at Tahquitz. Tom had completed this route a couple days before, with Bud Couch, and wanted some photos. It sometimes is tricky to belay and photograph at the same time. We tried to get pictures of some of the crux moves, but Tom soon realized that I wasn't going to be able to belay and shoot at the same time. So he chose a stance that he thought would be a bit more secure while I fiddled with f-stops. Actually, the ledge he is standing on is a lot thinner than it looks from this angle (note the old klettershue).  

 
 
 
 

This is Mike Sherrick on some climb at Pinnacles, sometime in the late 60s. I vaguely recall that it was on the Hand or Thumb.


 
 
 
 

This was July 4, 1966, at the bergschrund on the Sill Glacier (Palisades, Sierra Nevada). Barbara (my wife) and I were headed up to do a route on the east side of Mt Sill (East Couloir). Ed Kimura and Mel Vague were headed for a route on the next peak to the south.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

On the summit of Grand Teton, summer 1987. I had met Dave (? not sure at this point of his name) in Climbers' Camp. We did the Exum Direct. He was in mountain boots and I wore PAs, which meant that I could climb a lot faster, but I was sure miserable on the way down to the south col camp. That's the afternoon thunderstorm behind us. We headed down as fast as we could, packed our gear, and hiked all the way back out to the car.

 
 
 
 

In the summer of 1988, the family returned to the Alps. We did a hike and scramble up the Mettelhorn, a 3406 meter (11,175 ft) peak which is north of Zermatt and gives fantastic views of the Matterhorn (far background). That's my wife Barbara, and son William (age 9). The hike goes up the Trifft Gorge, then follows a trail to a glacier, which you cross to do a 2nd or 3rd class scramble to the peak. The distance is about 8 or 9 kilometers each way (5 to 5.5 miles) and a gain of 1810 meters (5925 feet) from the campground near the train station in Zermatt. We did the round trip in about 10 hours - not bad for a 9 year old.

 
 

On the summit of Mt Baker, North Cascades, August 1995. The route was the Coleman-Deming, up the Roman Wall. When you hand your camera to someone, you need to tell them to get to a position where you don't see their shadow.

 
 
 
 
 

On the way down from the summit of Mt. Shasta, May 1996. This was just the Avalanche Gulch route, not a real climb. But it did take about 8 hours to get to the summit from Horse Camp, after the drive up from the SF Bay area and hike in from Bunny Flat the day before.

 
 
 
 
 

Raul on Orizaba at about 17,000 feet. We were having frequent whiteouts, 30 knot winds, and a temperature about 15F. Several in the party were showing signs of AMS and hypothermia, so we turned back. We had been on Popocateptl a few days before. Three days after this picture, we watched Popo shoot a column some 20,000 feet into the air, thankfully from a safe distance on the highway between Puebla and Mexico City.

 

On summit of Rainier, August 1997. We did the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier route.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I keep planning to do the backcountry ski page, mostly tele, but some randonee. In the meantime I can't leave out the skiing. This is me on tele skis in the western Tetons.